The costume designer, Paul Tazewell from “Wicked”, has etched his name in the history books as the inaugural Black man to receive an Oscar for Best Costume Design.
Tazewell, who was previously nominated for “West Side Story,” has already earned an Emmy award (“The Wiz Live”) and a Tony award (“Hamilton”). He emerged victorious in the costume design category over other nominees such as Arianne Phillips (“A Complete Unknown”), Linda Muir (“Nosferatu”), Lisy Christl (“Conclave”), Janty Yates and David Crossman (“Gladiator II”).
This season, Tazewell has garnered multiple accolades including BAFTA, Critics Choice, and Costume Designers Guild awards, plus he’s been recognized as one of the top 10 emerging talent in costume design by EbMaster. To top it off, he received the EbMaster Artisan Award for costume design at the Santa Barbara Film Festival.
In that particular category, he became the second African-American individual to achieve victory – an achievement Ruth E. Carter etched in Oscar history when she claimed her win for her work on “Black Panther.” A few years subsequently, she added another win to her tally with the sequel “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever.
In his address, Tazewell proudly announced that he was making history as the first black man to win the Costume Design Award, expressing, “I am incredibly proud of this achievement.” He then extended his gratitude to the U.K team for their exceptional work and praised their beauty. Additionally, he thanked the leading actresses from “Wicked,” referring to them as his Ozian muses – Cynthia and Ariana – and shared his heartfelt feelings by saying, “I adore you both so much.
He created more than a thousand costumes for the movie version of “Wicked,” the Broadway musical. Among his most famous designs are the bubble dress for Glinda and the black dress for Elphaba.
Starting from the basis of the 1939 film, “The Wizard of Oz,” Tazewell first pondered over why Elphaba, portrayed by Cynthia Erivo, chooses to dress in black. He believed this choice made her stand out amidst the vibrant world of Shiz. However, he also pointed out that her dark attire symbolizes her ongoing grief for her mother who tragically passed during childbirth. His task was to add depth to his decision as “much of the nuance gets swallowed up by the black.
Tazewell crafted Elphaba’s black gown using felted fabric, gauze, and chiffon. He drew inspiration from the ruffled base of mushrooms for his design, explaining, “The focus was on translating that texture and structure into fabric.
When it came to selecting the shade for Glinda’s bubble dress in the new version, Tazewell turned to the 1939 movie “The Wizard of Oz” and the outfit worn by Billie Burke. The costume designer aimed to pay homage to the original Glinda while also creating a unique, iconic look. Instead of an exact match, he opted for a gentler pink tone with a warmer undertone. This new hue served as the foundation for the revamped design.
The dress featured a structured bodice adorned with hand-beaded and embroidered details that opened up to a bell shape. To maintain its ethereal quality, Tazewell chose to keep it semi-transparent, remarking, “It gives us a lighter-than-air feel.
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2025-03-03 04:19