San Sebastian’s Culinary Zinema Opening Film ‘Mugaritz. Sin pan ni postre’ Reveals the Method Behind the Madness, Bows Teaser (EXCLUSIVE)

As a filmmaker with a deep appreciation for gastronomy and its artistic expressions, I must say that I wholeheartedly resonate with the sentiments expressed by Andoni Luis Aduriz, the visionary behind Mugaritz. In an era where virality often overshadows substance, it’s refreshing to see a chef who stands firm on his values and style, even in the face of criticism.

At the San Sebastian Film Festival, the highly acclaimed food-focused segment called Culinary Zinema kicks off on September 23 with the film “Mugaritz. Without Bread nor Dessert.” This movie offers a peek behind the scenes of the two-Michelin Star Basque restaurant, Mugaritz.

Made by Movistar Plus+ and Fonte Films, the documentary titled “Inside the Gates” is helmed by director Paco Plaza (“The Grandmother,” “Veronica”). He was granted exclusive access to a 26-year old restaurant situated near the affluent city of San Sebastian. In this film, Plaza captures the journey of Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz and his team as they shut down the restaurant for several months. During this period, they brainstorm and develop an innovative culinary adventure for the upcoming season.

By the end of April, Mugaritz restaurant will begin operations, inviting adventurous diners to take up a culinary challenge. The kitchen staff is inspired by the head chef to astonish, provoke, and even offend patrons for this year’s theme, “Lo que no se ve” (What cannot be seen). The goal is to create a fusion of avant-garde and traditional elements, blending gastronomy, science, cuisine, and art. Every season brings a thrilling leap into the unknown, with no repeats of past hits. Some innovative dishes include one that requires diners to break a bone to access the ingredients and tea served in a cup made of leaves.

In the realm of Movistar Plus+ originals, a fresh, unique preview is unveiled in EbMaster, symbolizing another significant step forward in their original content strategy. This advancement is backed by the company’s partnerships with filmmakers like Plaza and a wider community of Spanish cinema, encompassing indie production companies such as Fonte Films, established by Pablo Isla, Carla Pérez de Albéniz, and María Jesús Román.

In a revealing conversation with EbMaster, Chef Andoni and Plaza delved deep into the ideology guiding their restaurant and the process of creating the documentary.

Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz:

What would you say are the main inspirations for your dishes?

For over two and a half decades, our focus has been on inquiring, probing, and delving… with the aim of eventually crafting something valuable for our visitors. Throughout this journey, connections with individuals from various fields such as theater, literature, music, fashion, philosophy, science, and more have been instrumental. We’ve come to understand that there’s a wealth of conversation and knowledge to be shared, and beneath the surface, these diverse disciplines share a common tongue with gastronomy. It seems that everything is more interconnected than we initially thought.

When you’re truly committed to creativity, ideas for a dish or fresh concepts might strike you at the most unanticipated moments – whether you’re engrossed in a romantic novel or studying an 18th-century essay on poetry. In essence, life experiences and events serve as the catalysts for your inspiration.

In the documentary, you mention that your approach to leading isn’t conventional. Could you clarify what you mean when you say you don’t lead in this context?

Leadership can sometimes be about inspiring change, envisioning a world that aligns with your ideals, not by forcing it or through rigid theories, but by cultivating an environment where growth and creativity flourish. Inspiration is potent, and when you empower those around you to grow, amazing things naturally occur. Your role becomes more about maintaining the integrity and consistency of this atmosphere rather than dictating specific methods.

Have you and your team talked about unfavorable feedback regarding the dishes too? Furthermore, a critical review from an influencer about the restaurant went viral on TikTok and later made headlines in newspapers. So, what’s your take on these criticisms?

I believe that in the world of social media and the immediacy we’ve created, we are prioritizing and promoting visibility and the ability to go viral over judgment and common sense, and I think it’s something we should stop to reflect on. Here, no one is forced to come, and I think it’s logical as a diner to care enough to have a basic understanding of the place you’re going to visit. It’s also curious that sometimes the criticism comes from people who are the same age or younger than the person behind the project, which has been defending its own way of understanding and inhabiting the world of gastronomy for over 25 years. The greatest act of generosity we can have is to show ourselves as we truly are. It’s an act of pure love for the customer, knowing that we might clash but also knowing not to give in on what we consider to be an asset for us: our style, our essence. I always say that the worst thing that could happen to us is for a diner to leave indifferent after an experience at Mugaritz.

Who do you believe initially led the way in this particular style of culinary experimentation and experience, Ferran Adrià from El Bulli, whom you’ve collaborated with?

Numerous experts have made remarkable impacts in their fields, but for me, Adrià’s El Bulli stands out as the most extraordinary and benevolent project ever conceived. Simultaneously, the French nouvelle cuisine movement and its subsequent developments were incredibly groundbreaking, with ideas that appear almost naive nowadays. For instance, it was considered audacious when Michel Guérard created a salad with a foie gras terrine, as some argued that acid couldn’t pair with foie gras; today, it seems like the most natural combination imaginable. Similarly, Gualtiero Marchesi’s open ravioli is, in my opinion, a conceptual masterpiece. Noteworthy events occurred, such as the trail blazed by Michel Bras, which led to the emergence of naturalistic cuisine and its offshoots. Furthermore, there are other exceptional chefs like Heston Blumenthal or Pierre Gagnaire, among others, who have forged new paths.

Paco Plaza, Director:

Can you tell us what inspired you to make this documentary?

For nearly a quarter of a century, I’ve had the pleasure of periodically visiting Mugaritz, ever since they first opened their doors. This long-term acquaintance has given me the unique opportunity to observe their extraordinary transformation. Andoni’s philosophy, his unyielding quest for novelty, and his innovative, non-conformist take on culinary art have always inspired me. When Fonte Films reached out to me, I didn’t think twice before saying yes, as I felt incredibly honored to be a part of capturing the creative journey of one of the most brilliant minds in the field.

I truly enjoyed the selection of tunes you made. Could you share with us the thought process behind your choice? Also, what musical instruments did you utilize in creating this piece?

Mikel Salas, a collaborator I’ve worked with on numerous films, created the music. Instead of conventional instruments, he opted for kitchen tools like forks, frying pans, and glasses. One of his inspirations was the traditional Basque melody, txalaparta, but he reimagined it using cooking utensils instead.

For how long was the filming process, and what year was it filmed? It seems like these are the dishes that will be served in 2024, if my guess is correct.

We covered the process of creating the 2024 menu, which spanned from January until the opening in late April.

What challenges did you face while filming, if any?

The goal was to ensure the documentary embodied the philosophy of Mugaritz – a spirit of rebellion, whimsy, and poetic over description. In my approach to both the filming and editing stages, I aimed to mimic the methodology employed by the research and development team at Mugaritz. Here’s hoping I managed to achieve that.

2024-09-16 11:17

San Sebastian’s Culinary Zinema Opening Film ‘Mugaritz. Sin pan ni postre’ Reveals the Method Behind the Madness, Bows Teaser (EXCLUSIVE)

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