How the ‘House of the Dragon’ Costume Designer Used Color for That Dramatic Finale Showdown Between Alicent and Rhaenyra

As a seasoned cinephile who’s traversed through countless realms of fantasy and history on the silver screen, I must say that the costume design for “House of the Dragon” is nothing short of breathtaking. The meticulous attention to detail and the thoughtful evolution of characters like Rhaenyra Targaryen and Alicent Hightower through their wardrobes has truly elevated this series to new heights.


In the just-concluded second season of “House of the Dragon”, costume designer Caroline McCall expanded upon the designs from Season 1, incorporating luxurious fabrics and a color scheme featuring shades of green and black. This wardrobe transformation set Alicent Hightower (played by Olivia Cooke) and Rhaenyra Targaryen (Emma D’Arcy), who were once allies but now find themselves at odds, on contrasting fashion paths. The costumes for Rhaenyra, designed by Jany Temines in Season 1, evolved to become bold expressions of power. Conversely, Alicent’s influence seemed to wane as she adorned herself in traditional medieval gowns that epitomized femininity.

McCall points out that the materials are thicker, more luxurious, incorporating velvets, satins, and intricate embellishments. The costumes also hint at the reality that during the era portrayed in “House of the Dragon,” King’s Landing, where much of the action occurs, experiences a cooler climate compared to King’s Landing as depicted in “Game of Thrones.”

What were your influences for Rhaenyra and Alicent besides the clothes in Season 1?

Reflecting on Westeros during the timeframe depicted, I noticed how Jany crafted a more classic, medieval European style for King’s Landing and the Hightowers in series one. However, I was captivated by her unique touch, particularly with Rhaenyra and Daemon’s wedding attire, as well as the dragon keepers’ garments, which seemed to harken back to the ancient Valyrian culture. Given Rhaenyra’s move to Dragonstone and her efforts to establish herself as a genuine Targaryen queen, I felt she would embrace her heritage more fully.

How the ‘House of the Dragon’ Costume Designer Used Color for That Dramatic Finale Showdown Between Alicent and Rhaenyra

In the first season, Alicent’s appearance was more stern, reflected by her choice of robust attire as she ascended in power. However, as the second season progresses and she finds herself losing her influential position, her style softens.

In Season 2, the initial ensemble chosen for her character is designed to be stronger, though originally we considered adding small shoulder patches, which felt too exaggerated. Instead, we opted for a chain adorning her shoulders, emphasizing her devout and religious persona, as well as her attire’s deep Hightower green hue. The color scheme varies according to the storyline developments; for instance, when she’s seen with Cole [Fabien Frankel], the robe she quickly dons is a more teal shade, reflecting her true character rather than her political persona. As such, we manipulate these colors: when she demonstrates loyalty, she predominantly appears in darker Hightower tones, while at other times, she’s dressed in more vibrant teal shades.

Furthermore, the language used in the embroidery was symbolic as well. The dress she ultimately wore displayed dragons breathing fire at one another, symbolizing Aegon and Aemond, her children, who found themselves engaged in a conflict with each other. Another gown bore an intricate pattern of weeds and thorns, signifying the trap she had created, a self-made entanglement.

In the final scene, during their clandestine encounter, what did her disguised attire look like – the one where she was veiled and concealed?

In Episode 7, Alicent and Rhaenyra are dressed in colors reminiscent of their Season 1 appearances to symbolize their past selves. When we first met Rhaenyra, she was riding a dragon in gray, and Alicent was in blue. However, in the woods [in Episode 7], Alicent is seen in a soft teal color instead of her traditional Hightower green, signifying a departure from her usual appearance and potentially indicating a shift in how she feels about her own children.

How the ‘House of the Dragon’ Costume Designer Used Color for That Dramatic Finale Showdown Between Alicent and Rhaenyra

What about Rhaenyra’s evolution?

To begin with, the character initially appears in the first three episodes with a figure reminiscent of her Season 1 appearance, featuring rounded shoulders and a fuller skirt, yet underneath, she wears a black mourning outfit that aligns with her character’s situation. Additionally, there is a red dragon-scaled dress as well. Despite the change in fabrics, the silhouette remains consistent. Furthermore, a pleated sun-ray petticoat is included, which references Daenerys, either looking back to or forward towards her. In Episode 3 when she returns from the Grand Sept, the production desired a distinct appearance for her character. Given her mental shift and new look, they opted for a more Targaryen style with a raised hemline. From then on, she is always depicted wearing boots, even though they may not be visible to the audience. Lastly, all of her subsequent outfits are designed for dragon-riding.

Could you tell me the history or backstory of the stunning dress worn during the final scene, where she’s presenting the newly appointed dragon riders?

For the upcoming dinner, these novice dragon riders attach great significance to their attire – it symbolizes authority, something they’ve never encountered before in such grandeur. Therefore, she is making a deliberate statement with her choice of outfit. The shoulder detail resembles cauldrons, armor, or even dragon scales.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

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2024-08-08 19:47