Elphaba’s Dress in ‘Wicked’ Was Inspired by Mushroom Gills

As a theater enthusiast with a keen eye for detail and a heart full of admiration for the artistry that goes into every production, I am simply astounded by Paul Tazewell’s work on “Wicked.” The mushroom gills-inspired Elphaba costume is a testament to his unique vision and ability to find beauty in the most unexpected places. His dedication to creating characters that are grounded yet powerful, and his commitment to representing marginalized voices authentically, makes me eagerly anticipate every new project he takes on.


In the creative process behind “Wicked,” Paul Tazewell drew inspiration for Elphaba’s black gown from an unexpected source – mushroom gills.

The costume designer accidentally found a documentary on mushrooms, which sparked Tazewell’s fascination with their diverse appearances due to texture and color variations.

In the role of costume designer, Tazewell was assigned the creative task for the musical “Wicked,” featuring stars like Cynthia Erivo as Elphaba and Ariana Grande as Glinda. The concept to connect Elphaba with natural elements derived from her background story.

According to Tazewell, she’s a young girl who’s often targeted due to her skin color, even facing rejection within her own family. Interestingly, because of her strong bond with the animal world, he found solace in nature when designing her appearance, and that’s where mushrooms served as his inspiration.

When conversing with EbMaster, Tazewell explains that the intention was to design a style that seemed authentic and rooted, offering a contrast to her supernatural abilities and defiance of gravity. He further notes, “It seemed fitting and true to my vision for her. She’s an animal rights activist, and because she faces marginalization, she finds comfort in nature rather than the people who are close to her.

Elphaba’s Dress in ‘Wicked’ Was Inspired by Mushroom Gills

Tazewell whose career spans Broadway (“Hamilton,” “Suffs”), TV (“The Wiz!”) and film (“Harriet,” “West Side Story”) says, “In holding mushrooms and seeing that pleated quality, it became about interpreting that into fabric and texture.” He used felted fabric, gauze and chiffon to make the dress. “The way we were able to manipulate it, created the idea of the underside of a mushroom.”

Elphaba’s Dress in ‘Wicked’ Was Inspired by Mushroom Gills

To determine the color for Glinda’s bubble dress, Tazewell referenced the dress worn by Billie Burke in the 1939 movie “The Wizard of Oz,” titled “The Wizard of Oz.” The costume designer aimed to honor the original Glinda while also making a unique, fresh take on the iconic design. Consequently, they opted for a gentler shade of pink and a warmer tone that set it apart as its own new creation.

Elphaba’s Dress in ‘Wicked’ Was Inspired by Mushroom Gills

The dress’s silhouette showcases an intricately designed, handcrafted bodice with beading and embroidery that fans out into a bell shape. Tazewell aimed to maintain its delicate transparency; he describes it as having a “feather-light quality.

She employed a variety of crinoline, tulle, and silk organza for the fabric, featuring an ombre effect where the pink shade progressively deepened towards her face. As Tazewell explains, we incorporated whirling bubble motifs into the pattern imprinted on the organza and embellished the bottom edge with embroidery.

Elphaba’s Dress in ‘Wicked’ Was Inspired by Mushroom Gills

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2024-10-24 05:17