‘Nonnas’ Review: Vince Vaughn Enlists Italian Grandmothers in Middling but Pleasant Cooking Comedy

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In this heartfelt dramedy “Nonnas,” directed by Stephen Chbosky, the ingredients are straightforward, the cooking leisurely, and the backstory deeply rooted in tradition. The Italian dishes celebrated in the movie aren’t crafted by formal chefs but by women of Italian descent whose flavors have been refined through generations. Each bite carries a delightful nod to their heritage and the people who cherished them. Interestingly, some elements of the film are genuine: Liz Maccie’s script offers a fictionalized account of how Jody Scaravella started Enoteca Maria, a real-life Italian restaurant where grandmothers cook.

Joe (played by Vince Vaughn), a worker at the MTA, has recently lost his mother. The movie starts with a scene from his childhood, where he watches his mother and grandmother, or ‘nonna’, preparing a grand feast for family and friends. These blissful moments are bathed in a dreamlike light to evoke nostalgia. In the wake of the funeral, all that remains are the dishes they prepared, serving as tangible symbols of their affection. However, it’s his nonna’s Sunday gravy that he misses the most, a taste so unique it seems impossible to replicate without the actual recipe. It doesn’t take long for Joe to realize that cooking is a way of expressing love, a theme that forms the core of this tale, which can be both sweetly sentimental and occasionally heartwarming.

When Bruno, Joe’s lifelong friend, and his wife Stella suggest him to use his mother’s insurance money to transform his life, Joe decides to start a new restaurant on Staten Island, which he names Enoteca Maria in tribute to the women in his family. He invites four elderly Italian women to be the chefs: Roberta, who was his mother’s grumpy Bolognese friend, Teresa, a former nun found on Craigslist, Antonella, a no-nonsense Sicilian, and Gia, his mother’s hairdresser whom he convinces to share her culinary talents with the business.

By featuring these actresses, we’re honoring Italian-American culture, especially since some have graced many prominent films and series focusing on this ethnic group: Bracco was in “Goodfellas” and “The Sopranos,” while Shire starred in “The Godfather” and the “Rocky” series. Additionally, Antonella’s neighbor Olivia (Linda Cardellini) joins in, as she was Joe’s high school sweetheart. This adds a romantic subplot to the storyline, which at times seems like it’s been artificially inserted to provide Vaughn’s character with an extra, if predictable motivation, beyond his deep affection for his mother.

As a film enthusiast, I must admit that Vaughn’s dialogue throughout the movie seems laden with common phrases. Yet, his everyday-guy authenticity manages to make even these lines feel genuine and down-to-earth. He convincingly portrays an ordinary, blue-collar man with a tender heart hidden beneath an imposing exterior.

On the other hand, Maccie’s screenplay appears to have been crafted meticulously to seamlessly tie up all the disparate plotlines into a neatly packaged conclusion by the end. This includes a letter left behind by Joe’s mother and the idea that Staten Island locals might take issue with an outsider opening a restaurant there.

Throughout the story, we’re treated to a blend of classic Italian songs and English tracks that resonate deeply with the immigrant experience in New York City. This musical backdrop adds a rich layer to the narrative from start to finish.

The most vibrant scenes in “Nonnas” occur when veteran actresses engage in heated discussions about the particular Italian regions they claim as their homeland, or reminisce about past regrets. Susan Sarandon shines in a role meticulously crafted for her character, who is the most fashionable and progressive among them. The fact that her character runs a hair salon becomes relevant in a scene where the grandmothers undergo a makeover while sipping limoncello and discussing their deceased spouses, lost loves, or parenting challenges. Their frank conversations leave one yearning for the film to truly embody its title by focusing on these women as main characters, much like “Tea With the Dames” or more recent releases such as “80 for Brady” did with their leading ladies.

In the movie “Nonnas,” food takes center stage, showcasing tantalizing close-ups of sauces, soups, and meats prepared by skilled cooks. However, it doesn’t delve deeply into the origins or cultural/historical implications of these dishes. Instead, it uses food as a means to explore family ties, reminiscent of María Ripoll’s “Tortilla Soup,” which focuses on a Mexican-American chef and his three daughters. The film consistently emphasizes the power of a home-cooked meal in fostering community, despite adding excessive narrative elements that sometimes blur the message. In the end, while it may be overseasoned with unnecessary plot points, the overall impact remains satisfying.

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2025-05-09 03:02