How Saint Laurent Recreated an Iconic 1966 Tuxedo Jacket for Paolo Sorrentino’s ‘Parthenope’

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One of the most timeless fashion items ever created is Yves Saint Laurent‘s 1966 Le Smoking tuxedo jacket. This women’s tuxedo jacket, characterized by its sleek satin lapels and powerful shoulders, became an emblem representing freedom and change.

Paolo Sorrentino’s newest creation, “Parthenope,” is a heartfelt tribute to his hometown Naples. With the central theme of “lost youth,” the film revolves around its protagonist, a young woman from Naples – often referred to as “Parthenopeans” in Italy – portrayed by new actress Celeste Dalla Porta. The narrative traces her life from her youth to middle age. Her style mirrors this transition, starting with vibrant oranges and bold colors reminiscent of her youth, and eventually shifting towards darker hues as she ages.

Throughout the film’s production, Carlo Poggioli, the costume designer, explains that Sorrentino had a specific visual vision for what he wanted to capture on camera. While Poggioli was responsible for designing many of Parthenope’s outfits, Sorrentino enlisted Yves Saint Laurent to offer insights into the character’s mind. Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director of the company, then collaborated to shape her wardrobe and supplied pieces that complemented Poggioli’s designs.

In their discussions, Sorrentino believed Vaccarello would be an ideal choice due to the fashion house’s rich heritage in vintage designs. He expressed his desire for the film’s style to possess a sense of timelessness, while still being believable and suitable for both the specified era and the narrative being told.

Poggioli concurs. Indeed, Yves Saint Laurent was exceptional. In his words, “Our collaboration was fantastic. We discussed the hues and silhouettes.

In a particular moment, Parthenope, who’s now thirty, slips into the well-known tuxedo coat. This act symbolically reflects her current life phase. The jacket emphasizes her yearning for autonomy and liberty at this point in her journey.

As stated by Poggioli, every fashion item worn by the character was specifically crafted by Vaccarello. He explains that no original pieces from an archive were utilized and everything was created from scratch. This encompasses the renowned dinner jacket as well. According to Poggioli, Saint Laurent had tailors and cutters exclusively dedicated to the production of these replicas. Furthermore, he mentions that Saint Laurent even sourced authentic fabrics from the period to recreate the items, such as the tuxedo jacket.

All the fittings were done in Paris and flown in to Naples for shooting.

Furthermore, Vaccarello skillfully replicated a dazzling ivory item adorned with jewels, an elegant black satin evening dress, and a golden lame cape along with a coordinating gown.

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2025-02-25 05:18