How ‘Emilia Pérez’ Costume Designer Used Silk and Cashmere for Zoe Saldaña’s Character to Reflect Confidence

As I delve deeper into the captivating world of cinema costume design, I find myself increasingly enamored with the exceptional talent that is Emilia Pérez. Her life experiences and creative journey are as vibrant and intricate as the fabrics she works with.


For costume designer Virginie Montel, who was working on the project for Emilia Pérez, it was essential to ensure her designs were considerate. Given that the movie was a musical, the performers required freedom of movement without being hindered by their outfits.

The story primarily focuses on character Rita, portrayed by Zoe Saldaña, who is a lawyer assisting a criminal figure in leaving the cartel and vanishing. Later, Rita undergoes gender reassignment surgery, transforming into Karla Sofía Gascón’s character, Emilia Pérez. In this narrative, Pérez seeks Rita’s aid to arrange a meeting with her spouse, Jessi (played by Selena Gomez). Director Jacques Audiard incorporates musical sequences to seamlessly connect the storyline.

According to Montel, the central idea in ‘Emilia Pérez’ revolves around transformation. Emilia undergoes a transition, while Rita and Jessi metamorphose in the latter half of the movie. The appearance, hairstyles, and physiques evolve – and they all had to perform dance routines. The costumes needed to mirror these transformations right from the start till the end.

Montel tailored the garments to depict the disparity between the two realms in Mexico: one being the urban dwellers, known for their trendy and chic attire, versus the rural inhabitants who remain unseen.

Initially, Rita appears dressed in a gray suit. Montel reveals that he persuaded Saldaña to wear padding beneath this attire, as Rita initially struggles with her body image and mobility at the start of the movie. However, following her transformation, she embraces her sexiness, donning silk and cashmere to accentuate her revamped physique and newfound self-assurance.

In regards to the main character of the movie, Montel desired Emilia to portray an image of sensitivity and delicacy, with a hint of sexiness yet classy. It was important for her to seem feminine even while wearing trousers and a blouse, and she needed to exude an air of upper-class refinement. Emilia favors bright colors and bold patterns, Montel notes, and has a keen sense of style. Interestingly, Rita, with her experience as a lawyer, has encountered many affluent and sophisticated women. Unlike these women, however, Emilia sought guidance from a coach on how to dress and behave, as she lacked the same references and had not been exposed to such lifestyles in her past.

How ‘Emilia Pérez’ Costume Designer Used Silk and Cashmere for Zoe Saldaña’s Character to Reflect Confidence

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2024-11-06 22:16