LA restaurant owner fights to keep “stinky tofu” on menu after it’s banned over smell complaints

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A restaurant in the Los Angeles area has taken a popular menu item off the menu after many customers complained about its strong odor, leading to a disagreement with city officials.

Golden Leaf, a Taiwanese restaurant in San Gabriel, has received warnings and fines because of the smell from its stinky tofu, a fermented dish with a very strong odor. City officials say the smell violates local rules, but the restaurant owner argues that stopping them from making it would hurt their business and Taiwanese culture.

This dish was a long-time favorite at the restaurant, and previously made up as much as 20% of their total sales before it was removed from the menu.

Restaurant fights to bring back signature dish after complaints

David Liao, owner of a Taiwanese food stall, told the Los Angeles Times that the smell of stinky tofu – a popular dish at night markets – brings people together and celebrates Taiwanese heritage. He calls the dish, known as chou doufu, a comforting reminder of home and something to be proud of.

Golden Leaf received its first odor complaints in 2017 from a local resident. According to Liao, the family investigated the surrounding area and neighboring businesses, but they were unable to smell anything themselves.

Even so, the restaurant received an official warning stating that its smells violated a local law against unpleasant or harmful odors. Because of the possibility of a $1,000 fine, the family decided to take the dish off the menu.

Since then, Liao began a Change.org petition to get people to support his ability to sell the famously smelly dish. As of today, the petition has gained over 1,300 signatures.

Stinky tofu gets its name from its strong smell, which some compare to aged cheese or fermented kimchi. It’s made by letting tofu soak in a salty liquid for a long time. This popular snack is common on the streets of Taiwan and is readily available in the San Gabriel Valley, home to a large Taiwanese community in the United States.

In 2025, Liao tried to revive the dish with small batches advertised through an email newsletter. But customer complaints started again, and the restaurant received more violation notices. Liao reports he’s paid over $1,000 in fines as a result.

City officials state the problem isn’t cultural. According to San Gabriel city councilmember John Wu, “It’s simply a matter of controlling food odors, not anything related to culture.”

Wu explained that businesses should control smells on their property and recommended using air filters. However, Liao pointed out that these filters could be expensive – ranging from $20,000 to $100,000 – and might not even solve the problem or stop people from complaining.

Liao explained they were eager to collaborate with the city, but progress stalled because the city couldn’t provide a written agreement. They also lacked the financial resources to proceed without a firm plan.

While other restaurants nearby serve stinky tofu without problems, officials pointed out that Golden Leaf is located closer to homes, which may be the source of the complaints.

Restaurants have faced consequences for food odors before. For example, in February, a Raising Cane’s in Boston sued its landlord after being threatened with eviction because of the smell of its chicken.

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2026-03-24 18:50